A view of nearby neighbors and communities can be great, but at some point, everyone craves a bit of privacy or sanctuary from the outside world when they go out into their yard. Whether it’s to block an unsightly view or distracting street noise, planting a privacy hedge is usually a top priority in home landscaping. The right choice of hedge plants can help create an outdoor oasis, enhance and beautify the surrounding area and buffer street noise and wind.

The word hedge can, and often does, mean a narrow formal row of one kind of evergreen shrub defining a boundary line between one area and another. What I want to suggest with this article is a different type of hedge- more of an old-style hedgerow- a mixed planting of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs set out in a more naturalistic staggered pattern. A softer wilder looking hedge will provide habitat for birds and year-round color and interest for nearby residents. The benefits of such a planting are many- a less formal layout is easier to maintain (less pruning) plus anything that dies or is damaged is less noticeable and more easily covered up or even incorporated into the design. In addition, mixed plantings create changing seasonal interest- evergreen winter structure following by spring and summer blooming shrubs followed by fall foliage colors, berries, and bark textures.

Some of our favorite trees and shrubs are: (you may already have some of the following in your yard to build off of, by all means, try to incorporate any mature plants you may have into the hedge it will give a more instantly mature look)

SUGGESTED TREES AND SHRUBS FOR HEDGES

NEEDLED EVERGREENS - Juxtapose different colors for more impact:

-         Green-  Cedar, White Pine, Arborvitae, Taxus (Yew), Cypress

-          Blue-  BlueSpruce, Blue Atlas Cedar, Boulevard Cypress, Skyrocket Juniper, Cupressus ‘Blue Ice’, Leyland Cypress,

-          Gold -  Chamaecyparis, Arborvitae, Taxus, Gold Juniper

BROADLEAF EVERGREENS - Aucuba(Gold Dust Plant), Azalea, Boxwood, Euonymous, Laurels, Hollies, Pieris, Photinia, Rhododendron

SPRING BLOOMING DECIDUOUS -Weigelia, Spirea, Lilac, Magnolia, Philadelphus (Mockorange), Kolkwitzia (Beautybush), Styrax- (Japanese Snowbell), Cercis (Redbud)

SUMMER BLOOMING DECIDUOUS - Hibiscus (Rose of Sharon), Hydrangeas, Clethra, Stewartia, Kousa Dogwood,

FALL FOLIAGE – Birch, Sumac, Euonymous( Burning Bush) Itea, Fothergilla, Japanese Maples, Callicarpa (Beautyberry), Viburnums, Oakleaf Hydrangeas

WINTER INTEREST- Red and Yellow Twig Dogwood, River Birch, Ilex verticillata(Winterberry), Paperbark Maple. Ornamental Grasses, Golden Privet

Remember

Repetition and variety are both keys to successful design- that is choose 3-5 of your favorites and repeat them in odd-numbered groups (usually 3-5-7 depending on the final length and size of the hedgerow) throughout the length of the border. Scale the hedge to the size of the yard and surrounding buildings and curve the edges to create form and flow and interesting niches to view garden art or perhaps plant bulbs and perennials Another suggestion is to choose at least one each of the different blooming seasons to mix peak times of color. Of course, hedgerows don’t happen overnight- yours can be beautiful and constantly evolving and changing tapestry of color and texture as plants mature and weave together over the seasons. Be sure to space plants to allow for the mature size and, if you have a small yard, it’s a good idea to plant more of the great new dwarf varieties of trees and shrubs so as not to overcome the yard and block out the sun. Look for the words ‘Nana’ or ‘Compacta’ in the names of the plants. During the first few years when things look a bit sparse, temporary inexpensive willow or lightweight twig fencing can help fill in the gaps as will large planters, annual flowers and vines, birdhouses and birdbaths, and garden furnishings. Don’t forget to leave some strategic openings or maybe even a gate or arbor for easy access to your friendly (and now grateful) neighbors!

For The Bees

Our poor hard-working bees need all the help they can get right now! Plant some of these favorite nectar sources in your garden this spring and be part of the solution.

Bees are vital to the health of our planet and its inhabitants!

In any type of garden, soil preparation is everything and the key to your success in gardening.

Be sure to incorporate lots of rotted organic matter (humus) into your soil. This can be accomplished by turning under chopped leaves or grass clippings, aged compost or manure, or growing cover crops (green manures). Humus is the soil that acts as a sponge holding onto water and keeping it in the root zone for the plants to use. Humus also improves soil texture, structure, and drainage. In addition to hummus, it may be necessary to add lime; a simple Ph test will determine this. A balanced Ph releases locked-up nutrients in the soil and makes them available to plants. If your soil has poor drainage i.e. lots of water standing on the surface for a long time after it rains, then you may have to actually add sand or gravel to your beds. This may seem strange, especially on L.I. where we are basically on a sandbar, but I have found this to be extremely beneficial when trying to grow Mediterranean-type plants, especially herbs, alpines, succulents, heaths, and heathers, small bulbs,  and other rock garden type plants. One easy solution is to actually mulch around the plants with sand, gravel, or oyster shells- this has been proven in university studies to increase the production of lavender by 400%!

The breaking down of the humus provides nutrients in the soil. This happens slowly, however, and may need to be supplanted by good balanced organic fertilizer. The low-analysis, steady release, and gentle non-burning action feeds the soil as well as the plants and enhances microbial activity in the soil.

• Make plans now to divide or add some new reliable late summer and fall-blooming perennials like asters, grasses, Japanese anemones, Callicarpa, late-blooming mums (like Hillside Pink Sheffield), aconites & lilies. They’ll be bigger, healthier, and give a longer show of bloom if planted in spring rather than at their normal bloom time.

• Clean old mulch, leaves, debris &dead plant tops out of beds, cut back hard any grasses or semi-woody perennials that need rejuvenation, i.e. Buddleia, Caryopteris, some Clematis

• Renovate overgrown or outdated garden areas by lifting, dividing, or discarding existing perennials and taking the opportunity to heavily amend the soil with well-rotted humus of some sort (leaf mold, compost, manure) plus any soil amendments needed (fertilizers, lime, trace elements).

• Fertilize emerging bulbs with gentle, natural Bulb-Tone Fertilizer and amend bare soil areas around the bulb clusters with compost to add later blooming annuals, tropicals, or perennials when the spring show is over. What? You forgot to plant bulbs! Come check out our selection of potted, blooming, and ready to plant unusual bulbs.

1 cup sugar syrup*

4 fresh lavender heads, or 1 scant tsp. of culinary grade dried lavender

Juice of 1 lemon, strained

1 ½ cups cold water

Pour 1 cup syrup into a pan, add the lavender flowers & bring to a boil.  Remove pan from heat, add the juice of ½ of the lemon, then cover & let cool.  Strain syrup to remove the lavender & add the cold water.  Taste & add the remaining lemon juice if it seems too sweet.  Process in your ice cream/sorbet maker according to the manufacturer’s directions.  To store, quickly scrape into plastic freezer containers, cover tightly.  Allow 10-15 minutes in the refrigerator to soften sufficiently before serving.

*To prepare a batch of sugar syrup
Place 5 parts granulated sugar & 4 parts water in a saucepan.  Heat on medium to low & stir until sugar dissolves. 
Remove from heat & let cool. 
Cover & refrigerate. 

From Frozen Desserts by Caroline Liddell & Robin Weir

Why

Convenience, flexibility, portability, temporary-no long term commitment. Container gardening is a creative fun and fast way to begin learning about the art and craft of gardening. both the combining of colors and textures and about plants- how they grow and how to care for them. Just collecting the containers themselves can become yet another fascinating and rewarding hobby!

Where

Stairs, porches, patios, outdoor rooms & kitchens, windowsills, entrances, punctuation points at entrances to, and along paths, into and among existing gardens, sun, shade, wet, dry, anywhere.

When 

• Winter - Evergreens, colorful twigs, and berries, cones, and seedheads

• Spring - Bulbs, blooming small trees and shrubs, spring perennials and annuals, green grass

• Summer -  Hot tropicals, tender vines, heat-loving annuals, herbs, water gardens-

• Fall - Grasses, grains, fall shrubs, cool weather annuals & vegetables

• Don’t forget to change out plants occasionally as the seasons change!

How

Pot Selection

Anything with a drain hole or holes that is sturdy and weatherproof, especially if year-round. Should be as large as possible for less watering and maintenance. Clay for weight, porosity, and classic good looks. Plastic for economy, lightweight, and ability to be hidden by a cache pot type cover (basket, bucket, etc..). Other containers for planting include galvanized tin, fiberglass, wood(excellent), stone, hypertufa (fake stone), cement, which may be aged for an instant antique look. (Mix up a bar of pottery clay in water with some moss and a small bottle of fish emulsion fertilizer to a thick slurry and paint onto your container).

Planting mix

A soil-less, light & well-drained potting mix should be used. Combine with both a long and short-term fertilizer like Plant Tone & Osmocote, which is what we use. Other amendments can be added as needed: peat, sand, vermiculite, perlite, or sol-u-sorb granules for hanging baskets, window boxes, etc…. Think about a decorative mulch or ground cover on top of the pot for moisture retention.

Watering

Should be done as needed, thoroughly and gently with a water breaker type watering wand or watering can. Water until you see it run out of the drain holes at the bottom, then don’t water again till needed. It’s just as easy to over-water as underwater! Group pots together to cut down on watering needs. Staging of some sort will increase the attractiveness of your container garden. Plant stands, benches, crates, old wheelbarrows, and upturned buckets & pots will all work & show all plants to good advantage. Space plants properly to increase light availability & add air circulation. This will help prevent diseases. In addition, be sure to groom plants regularly: deadhead, cut back, and remove dead or damaged branches and leaves to keep them looking their best. Lastly, try to intersperse some garden art or personal artifacts; signs, statues, or maybe even a fountain or other water feature to further highlight and enhance your grouping.

Light

Even sun-loving plants in small containers will need some kind of break from the summer heat. Look for an area that gets part-day shade, like the west or east side of a building or fence. If there is no direct light at all, don’t despair; there is plenty of gorgeous shade-loving plants to create with. Try some tuberous begonias - they like dry shade and are very easy to care for. Other plants for dark corners include ferns, mosses, coleus, English ivy, hostas, and low light houseplants like philodendrons, etc...

Edible Plants & Herbs

If you have limited space or time (who doesn't?), deciding what is worth growing and what to buy locally is a challenge.

Our garden-worthy edibles for the upcoming season are worth the effort to grow yourselves, either because of the superior flavor, ease of cultivation, or simply because they are not readily available or are very expensive to find in the market.

Not only will these plants attract loads of butterflies, but they will also make your yard or garden more beautiful.

After 27 years of trialing and growing here at our nursery, these are some of the favorites we will be offering for sale this spring.

Flower-scented sugars are easily made & can transform granulated sugar into a fragrant addition to cakes, cookies, custards, whipping cream & all sorts of sweets.  Choose sweet, aromatic flowers to flavor the sugar:  anise hyssop, lavender, lilac, rose, scented geraniums & sweet violets.

To prepare

Floral Sugar

Use a clean pint jar with a tight-fitting lid. 
Fill the jar 1/3 full with sugar, then scatter a small handful of flowers on top. Add sugar to 2/3 full; add another small handful of flowers. 
Cover with sugar to fill the jar, leaving ½” space to the lid. 
Put on the lid, shake jar, and place on a shelf in a cool, dark place. 
The sugar will be ready to use in 2-3 weeks but will become more flavorful with age. 
As you use this sugar, add more in its place.

Vanilla Sugar

Place 2 cups of granulated sugar & 1 vanilla bean (cut into small pieces) in a processor. 
Process until the bean is very finely minced. 
Strain to remove any large pieces.  Store in an airtight container. 
Use this sugar to flavor your favorite recipes. 

Ginger Sugar.  

Using this same technique you can add ¼ cup chopped crystallized ginger to 2 cups of sugar.

Adapted From Flowers in the Kitchen by Susan Belsinger

What is a meadow garden?

A meadow, in nature, is a diverse community of non-woody plants and grasses. Because a true meadow takes years to establish itself, a gardener who wants his own would naturally want to hurry things along. Thus, by compressing the natural succession of steps into a single season, we create a man-made meadow or meadow garden.

Why would you want one?

1. Low maintenance-Although it is a lot of work at first, once established, a meadow garden does allow the gardener to relax and enjoy it a little more. Worries about mowing, watering, weeding, trimming, edging, fertilizing and harvesting are all much less than with any other type of garden.

2. Four-Season Beauty & Interest-The ever-changing show of bloom in your meadow will go on throughout the growing season. In winter, the unmowed swirls of dried grasses and various seedpods provide interesting texture against the snow.

3. Protection of Wildlife & Native Plant Species-In an area where open space is fast diminishing, you’ll soon find all sorts of interesting birds, bees, and critters taking refuge in the haven you’ve provided. The colonies of wild species you establish act as a seed source, reappearing in neighboring vacant lots, hedgerows & woods.

When    
Soil preparation and planning can begin any time of year, providing the ground isn’t frozen. Seeding or "plugging" of established plants is best done in spring or fall when temperatures are cooler and rainfall more frequent.

Where
Any sunny open area will do. Size can range from a 100 sq. ft. patch to an acre or more.

How to begin

1. Establish an outline of the area and it’s dimension.

2. Remove existing unwanted vegetation by repeated roto-tilling, hand-weeding or heavy applications of mulch.

3. Improve soil with compost, peat or rotted manure, lime and fertilizer.

4. Roto-till again to incorporate soil amendments.

5. Rake smooth. Try to wait until the 1st flush of weeds appear then cultivate shallowly & rake again.

6. Introduce desired plant species by seeding (some grasses & annuals) or "plugging" (speedier method for establishing specimen grasses & perennial wild flowers.

7. Mulch lightly, if possible, and water frequently the 1st few weeks (at least every other day).

8. Once everything is coming up, your biggest job will be watching out for aggressive unwanted weeds. You must go through & hand weed any undesirables to give your wildflowers and grasses a fair chance. This should be done as often as possible the 1st year.

Some tips

· If your area is overwhelmingly large, don’t try to do it all at once. Each year, till up only the scruffiest looking patches and let nature work on the rest.

· If your area is small, you can still create a meadow effect. Just group some small ornamental grasses and a few perennial wildflowers among them.

· Don’t try for an even distribution of flowers across the meadow. A more natural effect is created when species are scattered randomly in groups as they are in nature.

· Mowing is done only once a year-after the growing season is over or in very early spring.

· Try to create meandering paths for enjoying or working in your meadow. This can be as simple as mowing a 4 ft. wide swath around and through the tall stuff or constructed of gravel, wood chips or wood-decking.

· In my own meadow garden, which is not strictly limited to true prairie plants, I also have some of the more aggressive herbs growing. These rampant growers tend to overcome a smaller or more formal garden, but are perfect in this situation. I especially like those which produce abundant material for drying such as safflower, teasel, tansy, costmary, & various thistles, mulleins and yarrows. Annual chamomile appears everywhere, once planted, and is one of the earliest flowering herbs to be harvested.

Seed Sources

*Wildseed Farms- 425 Wildflower Hills  P.O. Box 3000 Fredricksburg TX  78624

www.wildseedfarms.com

Vermont Wildflower Farm-Box W, Charlotte, Vt. 05445 Free

Plants of the Soutwest-1570 Pacheo St., Sante Fe, N.M. 87501 ?

Clyde Robin Seed Co.-P.O. Box 2366, Castro Valley, Ca. 94546 $2.00

Bibliography

"The Wildflower Meadow Book"-Laura C. Martin

"Growing and Propagating Wildflowers"-H.R. Phillips

"Landscaping with Wildflowers & Native Plants"-Ortho Books

"Native and Near Native" an introduction to L.I. Plants-Albert Hoster

"Guide to the Plant Commodities of Napeague Dunes, Long Island"-Ann Johnson

 

Plant Suggestions for a L.I. Meadow Garden

Grasses-Perennials

Fescues-Blue, Sheep, Meadow (Festuca), Tufted Hairgrass- (Deschampsia),*Little or Big Bluestem or Beardgrass (Andropogon), Buffalograss (Buchloe dactyloides), Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis),*Indian Grass (Sorghastrum) ,Fountain Grass (Pennisetum),*Switch Grass (Panicum virgatum), Moor Grass (Molinea)

*These 3 are the original native grasses of the Midwest prairies. They’re adaptable to a wide range of environments and provide a natural succession of bloom when planted together.

Remember to check the heights of the grasses you intend to use. Some get very tall and may not be suitable for a small garden.

Wildflowers - Annual

Coreopsis (Coreopsis tinctoria),Field Poppy (Papaver rhoeas),Cornflowers (Centaurea cyanus),Wild Sunflower (Helianthus annus),Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus),Blanket Flower (Gaillarda pulchella),Larkspur (Delphinium ajacus),Scarlet Flax (Linum grandiflorum ‘Rubrum),Baby Snapdragon (Linaria maroccana),Rose Mallow (Lavatera trimestris),Black-Eye Susans (Rudbeckia hirta),Tidytips (Layia platyglossus),Baby Blue Eyes (Nemophilia menziesii)

Wildflowers - Perennial 

Coneflower (Echinacea),Beard Tongue (Penstemon),*Wild Lupine (Lupinus perennis),Bee Balm (Monarda),Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia gloriosa),Oxeye Daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanthemum),Indian Blanket (Gaillarda aristata),*Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa), Meadow Sage (Salvia pratensis),Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria),New England Aster (Aster novae-angliae),*Evening Primrose (Oenothera),Yarrow (Achilla),*Turks Cap Lily (Lilium martagon),*Rose Mallow (Hibiscus palustris),*Mullein (Verbascum),*Chicory (Chicorium intybus),Soapwort (Saponaria),*Butter & Eggs (Linaria vulgaris),Blue Flax (Linum perennis),*Eastern Prickly Pear (Opuntia ),*Beach Wormwood (Artemesia stellerania),*Bearberry (Arctosaphylus uva-ursi),Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata)

*Native to Long Island

8 oz. (2 sticks) cold, sweet, unsalted butter

½ cup lavender sugar*(see recipe below)

2 cups flour

Pinch of salt

Preheat oven to 250 degrees.  Combine butter and sugar in a bowl and mix slowly for about 15 seconds.  Add flour and mix for 3-5 minutes, until dough comes together. (It will look dry just before it comes together).  Put dough on a lightly floured surface and roll out to ¼” thickness.  Cut with a 3” cookie cutter.  Chill for 1 hour.  Line baking sheet with wax paper, place cookies so they are not touching on the pan.  Bake for about 45 minutes until firm but still white in color.   (Adapted from Stars Desserts by Emily Luchetti)

These are their least favorite snacks. In a really bad deer area, we also recommend they be combined with a
deer repellant and physical barriers if necessary.

Trees and Shrubs 

Barberry, Paper Birch, Boxwood, Bayberry, Cotoneaster, Chamaecyparis, Clethra, Cephalotaxus, Cornus kousa and Florida, Daphne, Elderberry, Enkianthus, Hawthorne, Heaths and Heathers, Kerria, Japanese Maple, Ilex, Leucothoe, Lilac,  Mt. Laurel, Rhododendron, Magnolia, Mugo, Black, and Scotts Pine, Pieris, Smoke Bush, Sarcococca, Spirea, Spruce, Sassafras, Chaste Tree, Yucca

Perennials                                                                                                                                            

Monkshood, Alliums, Anemone, Aruncus, Astilbe, Alyssum, Amsonia, Asclepias, Alchemilla, Artemesia’s, Baptisia, Boltonia, Bearberry, Buddleia, Campanula, Chelone, Coreopsis, Catmint, Convallaria,Dianthus, Dicentra,  Digitalis, Cranesbills, Coral Bells, Eupatorium, Euphorbias, Echinops, Epimedium, Filipendula, Ferns, Gypsophila, Hellebores, Grasses, Iris germanica, Linum, Lupine, Leadwort, Lamium, Lavender, Mints, Monardas, Oenothera, Peony, Prickly Pear Cactus, Perovskia, Polmonium, Pulmonaria, Polygonum, Salvias, Santolina, Stachys, Thymes, Veronica, Vinca, Yarrow

Annuals     

Ageratum, Alyssum, Begonias, Calendula, Celosia, Cleome, Cosmos, Centaurea, Dahlia, Datura, Dianthus, Forget-Me-Not, Geraniums, Heliotrope, Lobelia, Larkspur, Morning Glory, Marigold, Nasturtium, Petunia, Poppy, Salvia, Stock, Snapdragons, Verbena, Zinnia Bulbs  Alliums, Anemones, Chionodoxa, Crocus, Colchicum, Daffodils, Fritillaria, Galanthus, Leucojum, Narcissus, Muscari, Scilla

Herbs

Most Herbs are Quite Deer Resistant, the following may actually help repel deer from other plantings: Borage, Chives, Comfrey, Chile Peppers, Echinacea, Eucalyptus, Garlic Chives,  Garlic, Germander, Lavender, Mints, Rue, Rosemary, St. Johnswort,  Sage,  Santolina, Thymes, Tansy, Valarian, Wormwood, Woodruff, Wintergreen, Yarrow

A view of nearby neighbors and communities can be great, but at some point, everyone craves a bit of privacy or sanctuary from the outside world when they go out into their yard. Whether it’s to block an unsightly view or distracting street noise, planting a privacy hedge is usually a top priority in home landscaping. The right choice of hedge plants can help create an outdoor oasis, enhance and beautify the surrounding area and buffer street noise and wind.

The word hedge can, and often does, mean a narrow formal row of one kind of evergreen shrub defining a boundary line between one area and another. What I want to suggest with this article is a different type of hedge- more of an old-style hedgerow- a mixed planting of evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs set out in a more naturalistic staggered pattern. A softer wilder looking hedge will provide habitat for birds and year-round color and interest for nearby residents. The benefits of such a planting are many- a less formal layout is easier to maintain (less pruning) plus anything that dies or is damaged is less noticeable and more easily covered up or even incorporated into the design. In addition, mixed plantings create changing seasonal interest- evergreen winter structure following by spring and summer blooming shrubs followed by fall foliage colors, berries, and bark textures.

Some of our favorite trees and shrubs are:
(you may already have some of the following in your yard to build off of, by all means, try to incorporate any mature plants you may have into the hedge it will give a more instantly mature look)

SUGGESTED TREES AND SHRUBS FOR HEDGES

NEEDLED EVERGREENS

- Juxtapose different colors for more impact:

-         Green-  Cedar, White Pine, Arborvitae, Taxus (Yew), Cypress

-          Blue-  BlueSpruce, Blue Atlas Cedar, Boulevard Cypress, Skyrocket Juniper, Cupressus ‘Blue Ice’, Leyland Cypress,

-          Gold- Chamaecyparis, Arborvitae, Taxus, Gold Juniper

BROADLEAF EVERGREENS
Aucuba(Gold Dust Plant), Azalea, Boxwood, Euonymous, Laurels, Hollies, Pieris, Photinia, Rhododendron

SPRING BLOOMING DECIDUOUS
Weigelia, Spirea, Lilac, Magnolia, Philadelphus (Mock orange), Kolkwitzia (Beautybush), Styrax- (Japanese Snowbell), Cercis (Redbud)

SUMMER BLOOMING DECIDUOUS
Hibiscus (Rose of Sharon), Hydrangeas, Clethra, Stewartia, Kousa Dogwood

FALL FOLIAGE
Birch, Sumac, Euonymous( Burning Bush) Itea, Fothergilla, Japanese Maples, Callicarpa (Beautyberry), Viburnums, Oakleaf Hydrangeas

WINTER INTEREST
Red and Yellow Twig Dogwood, River Birch, Ilex verticillata (Winterberry), Paperbark Maple. Ornamental Grasses, Golden Privet

Remember, repetition and variety are both keys to successful design - that is choose 3-5 of your favorites and repeat them in odd-numbered groups (usually 3-5-7 depending on the final length and size of the hedgerow) throughout the length of the border. 

Scale the hedge to the size of the yard and surrounding buildings and curve the edges to create form and flow and interesting niches to view garden art or perhaps plant bulbs and perennials Another suggestion is to choose at least one each of the different blooming seasons to mix peak times of color. Of course, hedgerows don’t happen overnight- yours can be beautiful and constantly evolving and changing tapestry of color and texture as plants mature and weave together over the seasons. Be sure to space plants to allow for the mature size and, if you have a small yard, it’s a good idea to plant more of the great new dwarf varieties of trees and shrubs so as not to overcome the yard and block out the sun. Look for the words ‘Nana’ or ‘Compacta’ in the names of the plants. During the first few years when things look a bit sparse, temporary inexpensive willow or lightweight twig fencing can help fill in the gaps as will large planters, annual flowers and vines, birdhouses and birdbaths, and garden furnishings.

Don’t forget to leave some strategic openings or maybe even a gate or arbor for easy access to your friendly (and now grateful) neighbors!

Shrubs:                                                                                                             

Aronia-Chokecherry

Dogwoods

Roses-esp. old fashioned wild types ie.- rubrifolia, rugosa with plentiful hips

Blueberries

Elderberries

Brambles-ie. Gooseberries, Currants

Coralberry

Viburnums- many species

Bayberry

Buckthorn

Pyracantha

Inkberry

Winterberry

Trees:

Cherries

Crabapples

Dogwoods

Firs

Hawthorns

Hollies

Junipers

Maples

Oaks

Pines

Birch

Red Cedar

White Spruce

Grasses:

Panicum (panic grass)

Calamagrostis (reed grass)

Vines & Groundcovers:

Honeysuckles

Trumpet vine

Virginia Creeper

Grapes

Perennials:

Scabiosa

Echinacea

Sedums

Violas

Yarrow

Asters

Penstemon

Rudbeckias

Foxgloves

Columbines (Humingbirds)

Coreopsis

Daylilies

Eupatoriums

Goldenrods

Ironweeds (Veronia)

Poppies

Yucca

Helianthus

Annuals/Biennials

Sunflowers (Helianthus spp.)

Kochia

Cosmos

Hollyhock

Lunaria

Impatiens

Petunias

Sweet Williams (Dianthus)

Verbenas (bonariensis)

Poppies

Hummingbirds Specifically:

Agastache

Columbines

Buddleia

Trumpetvine

Honeysuckles

Flowering Quince

Cleome

Fuchsias

Heuchera

Impatiens

Nepeta

Nicotiana

Scented Geraniums

Phlox pan.

Salvias - particularly elegaus (Pineapple Sage)

Petunias

Penstemons

Additional Elements for Luring Birds:

Sheltering thickets/Vines, Evergreens

Housing

Food- feeders and natural feed.

Bathing- Bird bath/Water, even in winter

Moving water helpful